Punta Arenas – the finale

TARDE AGAIN
Sorry we have not updated, or caught up for a while now. We blame Jack and although we have ha a lot of fun we have spent a lot of our time either in the middle of nowhere or on a bus for the last week or so. But anyway we were up to getting back to Punta Arenas…..

THE BUS BACK
The bus sped away from the end of the world and the 3 of us (Dylan, Simon and I) breathed a sigh of relief whilst taking in the wildlife. We spotted some flamingoes chilling by a lagoon, a few lamas, some cows, and a man on a mule herding literally 1000’s and 1000’s of sheep (so much so the bus was stuck in a sheep jam for quite some time) and Pete – yes we did spot a couple of monkeys but they scampered before we got a chance to take a photo; they were hiding in the trees! After our little safari we eventually got back to some form of civilisation in Punta Arenas

A NEW HOSTEL
We got dropped off not too far away from the hostel we were in originally but on the way there we spotted Hostal Helena, well we couldn’t just walk past that, it was a sign, so we rang on the door and entered a secure, homely hostel and after checking a triple room decided this was the place for us (even had cable and radiators and was en suite!).

First things first, after the last few days we had a lot of smelly clothes (Dylan was definitely no exception to this!), so we gathered them all up and went in search of a Lavanderia. We also wanted to book a day trip the next day to go to Tierra del Fuego on the ferry so we were in search of the info place. There was no problem finding a few info places but it just so happened that on a Saturday they were all closed!!! So not to be defeated we found a little pizzeria for some lunch and enjoyed coffees; the boys both had a pizza each while I went for a churrasco sarnie, a fave of mine in Chile. We then headed back with a detour to the Lavanderia and good news, the place was open, bad news we would have to pick our stuff up on Monday around the same time we would be flying!!!

This day wasn’t going to plan, however back to the hostel.

Dylan got on the internet to see if we could book a ferry for the next day while I did some hand washing in the shower!!! Hurray! Clean clothes (if not a bit wet) and we managed to book a ferry for the morning (although the web site was all in Spanish so we weren’t completely sure we had booked it correctly and still had no idea where exactly the ferry set off from!). Because of this problem Simon and I decided to go along the coast to see if we could find the port but we didn’t have much luck and decided that in the morning we would go to the only place where we had seen boats docked and try our luck there.

By the time we were all sorted it was getting quite late so headed out for the evening. Dylan was extremely paranoid about getting locked out of the hostel and we couldn’t work out if there was a curfew or not, so we promised him we would be back at a decent hour, no calls of “just one more wine” tonight!!!

THE OLD PALACE
The place seemed a little quiet, especially for a Saturday but we found a bar – of course! Not just any bar but the The Braun Menendez Palace (representing the Golden Age of the Magallanes region in the extreme south of the continent with its original furniture and historic objects kept as they originally were back then), the bar was in the basement of the old Palace (now a hotel) and could almost have been mistaken for a traditionally themed Olde English bar (Dylan: at least when the renovations would have been complete). The place was dead, we were the only ones there but it looked OK so we ordered some beers and a few snacks, some chicken kebabs, tacos and a selection of empanadas.

After a couple of drinks and reminiscing about the last few strange days we had had we found a bar with a few people in it, this one was quite different, for a start it had windows, and you got little portions of snacks (Pringles and nuts!) at your table with the beers (although the beers were in cans!).

TECHNO
Well, after our snacks and cans of beer it was still relatively early so we persuaded Dylan to have a wander around the toon. We stumbled across what looked like a bar (although it was surrounded by about 5 bouncers) and when peeking through the doors realised it could be a club (especially when we had to pay to get in!) but it also looked like a live band was setting up so we felt it warranted a good luck. After paying our entry (Dylan: but being reassured it was a bargain as we get a free drink voucher) we entered and selected a table. Our waitress then informed us that our drink vouchers could not be redeemed until way after we anticipated to stay there and then only against a 2 for 1 cocktail – DAMN!

She also assured us that we would much prefer it upstairs as the music was much better so we collected our drinks and headed upstairs (I, Dylan, was dubious already!). Upstairs was a kind of drinking hall with a long dance area leading to two small bars and a big DJ area. The noise was reverberating off the walls to the point of shaking the overly fancy light equipment (that I was sure could be infringing some aviation legislation!, the music was a mixture between 80’s reggae and 90’s rock and the revolving lights headed skywards through the gaps of the tinfoil covered glass roofing.

I’m not sure if things got better when the BOOM BOOM BOOM was replaced it with golden oldies such as Celine Dione, The Pet Shop Boys and Bob Marley (the latter being a welcome reprieve).

We managed a drink or two but our sensitive ears could only take so much. It was also freezing and we had put our jumpers, scarves and hats back on, we agreed to head back to the safety and serenity of our hostel – and before curfew too (H – the curfew that Dylan had made up and persuaded us to go back for!!!!)

UP AND ON THE BOAT
… we thought!

We rose in good time for our breakfast which consisted of the usual: bread, coffee, orange juice & Jam – and with the welcome addition of a few cookies!

We headed out to the port only to find that this port was where the penguin viewing ferries left from (when in season obviously) and eventually manage to ask the right person and got redirected to the correct port some 5/6km in the opposite direction. TAXI!

We arrived at the correct port and purchased our tickets. As we exited the sales ‘box’/office we realised that the walkway to the ferry was being pulled up and sped up accordingly – literally getting on the boat by the skin of our fingertips!!!

A FERRY ACROSS THE MAGELLAN STRAITS TO PORVENIR
It was quite a quite cold boat trip but we remained outside (as opposed to contesting with ill-mannered locals pushing and shoving for seats and then consuming 2 seats with their fat asses and bags) to check out the views of the land as we left. There were a couple of rainbows to be viewed in the distance and the town looked quite pretty (H – if still not very cold and a little wet and grey!) as we ventured out into the Straits. We watched and chatted for the 35km (2.5hr) journey and as be arrived a Tierre Del Feugo we were greeted by some dolphins showing off in the bay and swimming by the boat.

A MINIBUS TO THE ACTION
We managed to evade conversation with a couple of Mormons from Canada whilst crammed into the minibus that took us (and anyone else that could physically cram themselves into the somewhat insufficient space) to ‘the centre’.

READY FOR TH CULTURE

We were dropped off at the Porvenir Museum so felt it rude not to check it out (no they didn’t sell beer, we’re simply culture vultures!). It was a very odd museum (no! it still didn’t sell beer!) as it contained a whole collection of seemingly random objections such as

• stuffed birds
• models of mining scenes (maybe relevant given the fact the history of the place is built along the gold rush that nearly happened)
• Details and models of the Selk’nam people, the local indigenous people who were wiped out by the Spanish I think
• A typewriter (seriously)
• Other stuffed animals
• Some old phones
• Some old photographic equipment

Whilst we may not sound as though we are recommending it we are; it was lovely and warm and it’s worth checking out the comments we left in the book ;o)

GHOST TOWN
As we walked out of the museum and along a couple of streets it soon became apparent to us that we’d scored another beauty – the town appeared to be closed! In fact, the more we walked we realised that we would have found it difficult to define what the town would be like if it was ‘open’ – there were a few eateries so we decided to toddle into one. We soon realised this was a place we would enjoy a beer but definitely not eat and it wasn’t just to the two locals looking at us like we could be lunch that dissuaded us – it was definitely too strange for food even after a few of the places we have eaten in! In fact, Simon wouldn’t drink out of the glass as feared of catching something, so we drank up, paid up and got the heck out of dodge! – carrying on walking.

We popped into a souvenir shop (well actually we didn’t quite pop in as the three of us wandered aimlessly around the rounded hut looking for the entrance until one of the very old dears inside opened the illusive door for us). The lady insisted on forcing a little history on us showing us some pictures from a really old book – not just ordinary pictures but pictures of the original indigenous peoples along with comments on what ‘big boys’ they were (yep naked). So in the mad rush to get out Simon purchased some very expensive postcards but to be honest when trapped in a small round hut with two crazy old women like this you’d have thrown money at them to get out!

In between her innuendos looks at the photos the lady had also recommended her brothers restaurant but after a walk up the hill towards it we had decided against; the only people in there appeared to be the 2 staff.

Eventually we happened across a little hostel with a little rest room, with people in and a large TV showing a footy game, so stopped there. We checked out the hostel which looked quite OK and all had a Churrasco with a couple of glasses of nice wine, to pass most of the remaining time there 🙂

CEMETRY VIEWING!?!
After leaving the comfort of the hostel and venturing once more into the cold we headed for the cemetery (having been assured this was an interesting and beautiful site as opposed to some morbid fascination with cemeteries!).

We had a look around and took some photos; it’s amazing the difference between the extravagance of the memorials for the rich and the small wooden crosses of the poor (some not even inscribed with a name).

By this time it was nearly time for the bus back so we headed back to the museum, Dylan making a few friends on the way back, for some reason the dogs seemed to be really attracted to him (and I thought he had gotten rid of the sick smell!!!). We got there just in time as the bus was just off – about 15 minutes early, some travellers weren’t as lucky and ended up running after the bus with us shouting to the bus driver to hold on for them (I’m sure we still left some people behind!). The bus then took a slight detour, picking up a load of locals for the next 40 minutes, it looked like most of them were heading back to the mainland to study at the college/uni.

A DRENCHING
We eventually got back to the port and were early enough to grab a ticket and get a seat. However this wasn’t enough for Simon and I, after the huge waves on the way there we decided to venture out to take in a few views and see what the swells were like on the way back!!!! Major mistake, we got out and straight away were drenched by a massive wave coming over the bow of the ferry. As the boat started to rise up another swell we made a run for it, up some steps and to a higher deck. I managed to get to the top just as the boat started to dip down again and after a quick glance at the captain (fear was in his eyes, he couldn’t believe I had made it up without toppling over board I think!), I shouted back to Simon to go back down again. No need to worry, he was thinking the same thing and as I headed back down the steps, just as the boat started to dip again, I held on for my life, the sea was definitely too rough for this venture!!!!! We got back inside and were greeted by a one of the staff who (although we couldn’t understand what he was saying) was clearly amused by the state of the 2 of us, we were soaked through, but thankfully still alive!!!!

So we sat in the boat watching out of the window as the boat went up and down, up and down, watching a Spanish Simpsons and the Chilean equivalent of Animal hospital!!!

Back on land and it was already dark (and raining again!!) so we grabbed the nearest taxi, got back to the hostel and after a quick shower (and booking a hostel for Peru as well as a 21 hour bus trip from Lima to Cusco) we headed back out again.

We ended up in the same bar with the snacks, but were treated to bottles instead of cans this time and then after a couple decided it wouldn’t be right if we didn’t head back to our favourite “dusk till dawn” scary club for the last night!! When we got to the “bar in a sauna” which didn’t seem to be as scary as the first time (although it wasn’t quite as busy), we enjoyed some very strong rum and cokes before heading back to the hostel for our last night´s sleep in Chile.

A LAST SHOPPING OP´
The next morning, even after late night, 2 of us managed to make it for breakfast, you can imagine who stayed in bed after over indulging (yes correct, Dylan – well – come on, the question wasn’t that difficult!). We then packed up, leaving our bags in the hostel, and went to do a bit of shopping. OK, maybe the weather wasn’t the best for wandering about town (yes MORE RAIN!) but I dragged the 2 guys out anyway and after standing and watching some sort of military parade (no idea what it was for!) and walking around the cold and wet streets for a couple of hours managed to buy a very colourful jumper, just the thing I was looking for!!!

This left us just enough time for some lunch before we headed back to the hostel to pick up our bags before a taxi to the airport. We didn’t end up having lunch but did end up finding the very dodgy bar/café we had been in before our travels to Porta Natales. No lunch was had, just a couple of litres of lager instead, and just before we had to set off (thank God) we had a chat to a couple of locals there who enjoyed Simon and Dylan’s company so much, handed them a business card n the way out (Dylan: these weren’t just ‘Business Cards’ – these were business cards for gentlemen only – on the front was a lovely calendar with the chaps business address whilst on the back was a lovely lady with a big smile).

With business cards in hand we headed off to the airport for one last drink before saying our goodbyes and heading off to our different planes.

Simon, thanks so much for coming and joining us, if it wasn’t for you I think we would have both ended up killing each other in these cold deserted towns (if not drinking a little less) and as for Mexico (we are here now and oh my god is it hot!!!) get a ticket booked, surely you have time for a few more weeks of travel before settling down!!!

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